Unconventional Thread: The Reality
PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES
In pushing the boundaries of embroidery techniques, high-end retail companies have set a very high bar for offshore production. The average promotional driven embroidery shop has continued to compete with these trends utilizing the same technology found all too uncomfortable in the average shop. The truth is, these techniques are easily achievable with a little modification to the existing formula. The value is in the secrets of being able to successfully execute this technique. If no one else can create it, then it must be expensive right?
If you've ever been to a casual luxury store, you've seen the large lofty like embroidery which emulates a hand sewn yarn appearance. The reality is this thread technique is all done on an embroidery machine with some very simple guidelines. To address these guidelines, we first need to establish the basic recipe for being able to sew thread of abnormal size.
Lofty Satin Stitch - Wash-A-Way Felt
THE FORMULA
First and foremost, is the needle and thread. Since you'd be using a thicker thread, you'll need a slightly larger needle. I'll be using a tex weight here for reference. A tex 27 is typical as it is the most common embroidery thread available. The next size up is tex 40 and then tex 60. Both these require an 80/12 needle. Anything larger would need a 90/14 or 100/16 needle for a successful sewing formula. Keep in mind any thread larger than tex 60 will require a delay of hook timing of 2 degrees to allow more time to the hook to catch the loop. So to summarize...the choices of thread will directly be related to the needle required to sew successfully.
The second part of the equation is the thread selection. Do you want a soft fluffy thread? If so, you'll want to go with a Madiera Burmalana which is a tex 77. This is the most challenging of all threads to sew in production because of the weak tensile strength. A cotton wrapped tex 60 is the next best choice as it is strong but you need nice sharp cutting blades for your machine or minimal amount of trims. An example of a cotton wrapped polyester thread would be Coats Dual Duty or A&E D. Core. I'm not trying to plug these manufacturers just sharing the type of thread available in the US. Keep in mind these all have spun polyester counterparts which are equally successful in sewing but have a slightly less fuzzy factor at a budget price. A polyester wrapped polyester core is also a great choice. On a side note, these are all sewing threads for sewing machines and are guaranteed to never shrink under normal laundry conditions. Embroidery thread is NOT rated with these specifications and will typically shrink 5-15% in length. What does this mean? It means all that underlay you took the time to plan means nothing and your design will pucker after wash. DO NOT USE embroidery thread for a sewing thread's job.
So how does it work in an embroidery machine? An embroidery machine is a sewing machine with a computer/servo controlled hoop. Yes, you too can have these looks as well in your own shop.
Lastly, the backing or interfacing is the key element. My personal choice is a water dissolvable backing. This can be a little tricky hooping, but once you get used to it, it will show you the error of your fill stitches and satin stitch sins. The reason is that a garment will naturally shrink anywhere from 3% - 5% so the density will naturally do so as well. Remember in this technique the backing is only used to help hold the knot from coming through the fabric.
THE ACTION
So you've got all the necessary items to get started but how to put it all into action? That is the trick. After being in this business for 16+ years, I can tell you it is still challenging for any company young but especially old. As an old dog learning new tricks, you can't expect to solve for "X" on the first try. The reality is that you'll need to work with this technique no different than when you probably first learned to use 3-D puff foam. Did you know to create an underlay that would hold the foam in place on the first try? Did you try to make a loose zigzag stitch to help the underlay keep the garment from puckering? No one ever gets it right on the first shot, but here are some tips to consider if you're brave enough to try it.
TIPS & TRICKS
First off, you are indeed smarter than the technique and you simply just need to focus. It is the same loop and hook you're used to in a larger capacity which means slower. Slower doesn't mean less money as you'll typically compute this to less stitches per minute. Trust me, your design will have a massive stitch count cut by using this method. Less stitches but slower machine time means it evens out typically. Just don't forget to charge more. The casual luxury industry does it so why shouldn't you be able to charge for something most embroidery shops can't do?
Second, the backing tells you everything you need to know. Call your local embroidery supply distributor and ask about water soluble backing. If they can't point you in the right direction, they are not doing their job. If they have the sales, support and service they claim to, then they should know where to get it from and how. The backing tells all because it is NOT your typical cutaway backing holding a massive amount of packed stitches in a given area. This technique allows the garment to breathe and the backing dissolving after the wash (required for this to be successful) is essential. If you're using tex 60, use a density of .9mm to start you off. Execute a few fill stitches and a few satin stitches to get you started. Be aware, no data can be revealed until after the wash. Trust me it's all in the backing after the wash.
FINAL WORDS OF WISDOM
You can do this. You can take your embroidery projects to the next level. You just need to take the time to develop the technique in house. Keep in mind, I've been working with this technique since my days working with Abercrombie & Fitch back in 2004 and it still renders challenging in different shops to this day. Some machines are timed too advanced while some are too delayed. Some hook bushings are loose and allow the hook to wobble preventing it from catching the loop correctly. No matter the machine quirk, if off-shore production can produce this technique with machines 25+ years old, you can too. There are no secrets out there...just the illusion of value.